Tuesday, March 10, 2015

Treats - Forages - Hay


Treats



Most treats that you buy from petstores aren't good for your cavies. Many contain high amounts of sugars that can lead to diabetes, digestive and dental problems. Many contain harmful preservatives such as ethoxyquin, BHT and others. Many contain animal fats, corn oils, corn syrups, and dairy products- all of which are not good for cavies. Cavies are lactose intolerant and should receive no dairy products of any kind. They are also strict herbivores so any animal products are to be explicitly avoided. 

There are also treat sticks that contain seeds and nuts which cavies should not have due to choking hazards and the obesity factor. 

Forages



There are many forages that guinea pigs can eat. Please make sure before feeding to wash thoroughly. Also all forages must come from chemical and pesticide free areas and avoid areas close to roadsides as fumes from cars can contaminate. You also do not want to use grass or other forages from areas where dogs, cats or other animal species urinate or defacate. 

Grass can be fed daily in unlimited amounts once your cavies are used to it, otherwise start with a small amount and increase daily for several days.

Dandelion leaves are quite high in calcium, best fed every 3 days or so. 
Everything else, use your best judgement and give in small amounts. 

Also want to mention, if it's not on this list it may not be edible. So please ask before feeding.

1.    Grass (common grasses are edible, avoid ornamental grasses), cat grass/wheat grass is also popular and can be grown in pots or containers.
2.    Clover (Trifollium repens or Trifolium pratense)
3.    Dandelion (Teraxacum officinale) - pick leaves, stems, flowers (even root OK)
4.    Anise (Pimpinella anisum)
5.    Blackberry leaves (Rubus plicatus) - pick young & tender leaves and shoots
6.    Calendula (Calendula officinalis) - leaves and flowers
7.    Caraway (Carum carvi)
8.    Chamomile (Anthemis nobilis)
9.    Chickweed (Stellaria media)
10.  Cleavers / Stickyweed / Goosegrass / Bedstraw (Galium aparine)
11.  Coriander (Coriandrum sativum)
12.  Cowberry (Vaccinium vitis-idaeae) - berries, leaves in moderation
13.  Cow Parsley (Anthiscus sylvestris)
14.  Dog Rose (Rosa canina) - ripe fruits
15.  Duckweed (Lemna minor) - aquatic
16.  Fennel (Foeniculum capillaceum)
17.  Field Violet / Wild Pansy (Viola tricolor)
18.  Groundsel (Senecio vulgaris)
19.  Lemon Mint / Melissa (Melissa officinalis)
20.  Linden / Lime Tree (Tilia cordata or Tilia platyphyllos) - flowers with
pale yellow leaflets
21.  Miner's Lettuce (Claytonia perfoliata)
22.  Peppermint (Mentha piperita)
23.  Plantain (Plantago major or Plantago lanceolata)
24.  Raspberry leaves (Rubus idaeus) - pick young & tender leaves and shoots
25.  Spearmint (mintha spicata)
26.  Stinging Nettle (Urtica dioica)
27.  Shepherd's Purse (Capsella bursa-pastoris)
28.  Silverweed (Potentilla anserina)
29.  Vetch (Vicia x)
30.  Yarrow (Achllea millefolium)
31.  Whortleberry / Heidelberry (Vaccinium myrtillus) - berries, leaves in
moderation
32.  Wild Chamomile (Matricaria chammomilla)
33.  Wild Strawberry (Fragaria vesca) - berries and leaves



Hay - Vital for your Guinea Pig




UNLIMITED Timothy Hay (or a grass hay) is recommended for guinea pigs. For young cavies under the age of 4 months and pregnant or lactating mothers, alfalfa hay is also recommended. For those cavies, you could mix half Timothy and alfalfa. Since alfalfa hay (a legume, not a grass hay) is too high in calcium, it should only be given to adult cavies as an occasional treat. Timothy and alfalfa are types of hays, not brands of hay. Other grass hays include orchard hay or meadow hay.
According to Dr. Curt Nakamura, an exotic vet specialist at Adobe Animal Hospital in Los Altos, California, grass hay is an important part of a cavy's diet:
"One of the most important items in the guinea pig diet is grass hay, which should be fed in unlimited quantities to both adults and baby guinea pigs. It is important to provide an unlimited source of hay because pellets do not provide enough long fiber to keep their intestines in good working order. The long fibers stimulate muscle contraction of the intestines to improve and maintain gut motility (to prevent gastrointestinal obstruction).
"I cringe when I see photos of cages with nothing but pristine shavings and maybe a small hay rack on one end. Pigs LOVE hay and LOTS of it! They love to PLAY in it, SLEEP in it and under it, EAT it, RUN through it, and of course, poop and pee in it! Be generous in the cage. Change it or refresh it every few days. Your pigs will love you for it."
Teresa, Cavy Spirit
Chewing hay is also important. Like rabbits, the molars in guinea pigs are constantly growing and must be ground down by chewing. Constant chewing on hay promotes healthy and normal wear on their molars. Treats and chew sticks are not efficient at wearing the teeth.



Alfalfa hay is rich in protein and calcium, but when combined with pellets it doesn’t have the proper ratio of calcium and phosphorus. This can lead to improper gastrointestinal motility, such as diarrhea. It also may predispose certain guinea pigs to calcium oxalate bladder or kidney stones. Timothy hay is a better choice and is becoming more readily available. It’s important to keep your guinea pig sleek, so cut down on the amount of protein and calorie-rich pellets while feeding timothy hay."
Packaged Timothy hay found in stores is frequently dry and stale and less nutritious compared to what you can order from a farm. In addition, most farm hay can be delivered to your door in just a few days at a fraction of the cost of pet store hay in a variety of quantities.
If you must buy hay at a pet store, look for the greenest, freshest hay possible.

Buy the Bale! If you have a lot of guinea pigs and can store some extra hay, then finding a local source of good Timothy or grass hay by the bale is definitely the cheapest way to go. The most a bale of hay should cost from a farm or hay distributor is around $20 and that's for approximately 200 pounds of hay! Some feed stores will let you buy partial bales or in bulk. Feed store prices may be slightly higher. Some farm or hay sources will let you buy half bales.
Timothy 2nd-cut is generally preferred over Timothy 1st-cut. First-cut still has the seed heads on the hay. Second-cut is softer and greener. Shipping time and/or cost may factor into your decision on where to buy hay. Please supply your cavy with fresh hay. They will love you for it!

According to Oxbow, "The first cutting is harvested in mid summer and is more mature, containing a higher stem to leaf ratio and is coarser in texture. It is actually healthier as it is higher in fiber and lower in protein than a second cutting timothy. But many small animals do not find it as appetizing.
The second cutting Timothy is an immature cutting of hay and therefore contains a higher leaf to stem ratio. It is harvested in the late fall and is very soft and palatable to small animals. It is our leafiest hay and our most popular hay."

If you use hay for bedding or as a top layer of bedding, or if you are liberal with hay on the floor of your cage, be sure to change it frequently. Hay does not absorb urine; it can mold and cause a damp environment for your guinea pigs. So be generous with fresh, clean hay!

Hay can be stored for many months, depending on how fresh it is and if kept in the proper conditions. It should be opened to breath when you get it. Keep it in a dry and well-ventilated place, not in plastic. A wooden or cardboard box is ideal. If you get a bale or a partial bale, it will stay fresher longer if you break up the bale as little as possible. If you get a whole bale, try standing it on end, pop the strings, and use a section (or flake) at a time off the top. Just be careful as some bales expand more than others. If you get hay shipped to you, open the bag, leave the hay in the box, cut and remove the plastic.


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